Well, you've finally decided. Your model horse collection is about to become one-or more-smaller. Maybe you planned all along to sell it, or maybe you've run out of room in your house. Or is it because you're spending more on models than on your real horse? Whatever your reasoning, you wish to get rid of a model. So what's the best way to do it? Here are some guidelines to make sure that things go a bit more smoothly for everyone concerned.
First of all, what model is it and what condition is it in? Be absolutely brutally honest with yourself. About condition- if you intend to sell a model as being in perfect condition, it had better be in perfect condition. Or you may find yourself on the receiving end of a lot of complaints and maybe a refund request. Even new in box (NIB) isn't always perfect-but at least it isn't your fault. Unless there's a broken leg... then you've got some explaining to do. But for the most part, most models aren't perfect. A rating system is often in use, In this scale, 4+ is absolutely perfect, flawless, etc., 4 is "betcha-can't-find-a-speck-of-dust", 4- is almost perfect, but maybe not quite. It goes down from there with 1 being "remake fodder ONLY!" And if it is remake fodder, please be honest. If you really can't bear the thought of someone remaking ol' King, then why are you selling the model?
Honesty is the best policy when coming to models. If a piece is missing out of the ear or if the nose has a rub, say so! If some of us want the model badly enough, we aren't too choosy about tiny things. But if we intend to take the model to a live show, we are going to be as picky as all-get-out! And be honest about everything, please-if the Western Prancer is missing a saddle, we might look the other way. If the Western Prancer is missing a rein, however, I personally would see that as a problem, unless I knew for a fact that I could fix it. The Western Horse and Western Prancer, because of the holes at the corners of their mouths, look rather ridiculous without a bridle with reins. The only way you can "save" a bridleless or reinless Western model is by remaking the tack, replacing the tack or remaking the horse. If you just want the model to admire and/or show, but don't have time/money to work on it-there's no point in buying the model. And if the buyer wasn't told about a missing-rein problem, there's going to be two unhappy people in that deal.
One severe word of warning-no matter how big we think our model horse world is, it ain't that huge. Those interested in the hobby can always be reached by either magazines or on the Internet. So if you end up cheating someone, greatly upsetting someone or something else that might smear your name-watch out! Someone is sure to hear about it-or the other person might just announce to the rest of us what a low-down dealer you are. I've seen many a post informing the rest of us about someone not playing fair, or someone misrepresenting goods. I've listened to these, too. My logic is, well, I don't really need more hassles than I have, please and thank you! Honest mistakes are very different. And yes, most of us can tell apart a misrep and a mistake-mistakes are usually accompanied by sincere apologies. I have never "squealed" on anyone yet, but then, I've been lucky-no one's yet given me a reason to! I do, however, let people know in one way or another, when I've been impressed by someone's service and kindness-and yes, Debra Kerr, that includes you!! So, it's not a good idea to go around upsetting people.
Another "be-nice" tip-try very hard to get back to everyone who contacted you, whether the model's been sold or not. I don't mean get back to the person that instant. I myself only check my mailbox about three times a week-that's all I have time for! The sooner you get back to people, the better. I'm guilty of doing some very horrible things, too. And to Kellie, who held a model for me for how many months...thanks again! I guess all I'm trying to say is, we're only human. But let's try to be nice ones.
Another thing about models. Be realistic about your price. It's true that nobody will buy your model if it's hideously overpriced, but it's also true that if someone offers to buy your models, then finds the same thing cheaper-you are going to get what we occasional sellers call an "eleventh-hour refusal". This is a very impolite thing to do, depending on the circumstances. I have heard a story from a friend of mine about a model she desperately wanted-I believe it was "Hyksos". Well, she was willing to pay the $90 that a seller was asking. Her logic was, well, it's a NIB and no one else seems to have one. Then she got a reply from someone offering a NIB Hyksos at $30. She immediately snapped him up, then had the awful task of explaining to the other seller that she didn't want the model. She told the seller ASAP, plus she did write a nice apology. After all, she reasoned, they hadn't even finalized the agreement, or exchanged addresses...But the seller was furious. She badmouthed my friend from one end of the industry to the other-which earned her a lot of snickers, and not much sympathy (I mean, come on! $90 US for Hyksos?!). It wasn't terribly polite, but the world isn't exactly a big Miss Manners manual. I think the worst thing I've ever done was back out of a trade-I was desperate to buy Memphis Storm, but I didn't have the $60 required. But what the other party wanted was (In MY humble opinion) not in perfect shape, and I didn't want the trade to wind up badly. So I backed out and, despite numerous apologies, got frozen out-sorry, that's a Canadianism in my area, meaning, "to get a cool response".
Now I'm going to turn Devil's Advocate. When I sell my models, I first try to check with other model people to determine the value of the model. Then, when I put the model up for sale, I usually ask for the highest price that was recommended to me. This gives me some room to negotiate.I happen to like negotiations, unless the person is trying to insult my intelligence. One of my best friends put a mint Fighting Stallion with eyewhites and footpads from the 60's on the market for a good amount and got offered $35. Get real. It's worth more to keep him to look at than sell him for that! What I prefer to do is this: if you're buying a handful of my models, and they're expensive ones, then I'm going to be very flexible with the price. But if you're buying the cheapest bit of remake fodder I've got and start asking me to practically give it away, no, I tend to be a little stubborn.
So you've got your model, you've got condition figured out, price is set, you're ready to post a message...I've got some ideas for you to help you get the sale. And if these sound like "real horse" selling tips, yes, they could be, but I've never had a "real horse" for sale...
When putting your model on a list, PERSONALIZE that model. No, I don't mean write your name on it or anything. I mean, give it a name, a breed, some quirks...make it sound like a horse you've liked having. You'd be surprised by how many people buy a model just because they like his/her name. I've had all kinds of offers for some of my horses like Zympathi Forthe Devyll and Sutherland (both of whom are not for sale). Another friend of mine likes to tell how two of her horses sold. Same model, same colour, same condition, same price. One she called "Dances With Wolves" and the other she called "Tough Guy". Guess who sold first? Yep-Dances With Wolves sold within twenty minutes of her posting. However, Tough Guy did not sell for three weeks. Then she changed his name to "Frontier Sentinel" and-yes, this is true-sold him the day after her posting. So, this could have been just sheer coincidence....but I doubt it, too.
Now, I realize that you collectors that advertise your horses a hundred to a list can't do this..but here's my suggestion. If it's not costing you anything to post, why not break your list up? Have the Arabs here, the Saddlebreds there..or separate them into families. It does look confusing to have fifty names all in a row on a posting anyway. One thing I really like is when people divide their collection by molds, eg, Mustang in black, in sorrel, etc. If you're looking for a specific mold, then it's easier to see the one you're looking for.
Buyers and sellers alike, there's one phrase that seems to just raise the hair on the back of everybody's neck. That would be, "I might be interested...". HEY!!! If you've taken the time and trouble to post this or reply to something with this, you MUST BE interested, or why would you have bothered??? Besides, it's cruel and unusual punishment to both sellers and buyers. "I have a Commemmorative Edition Laag in mint condition that I MIGHT BE interested in trading for that remake-fodder foal of yours....but I MIGHT not!" See what I mean? The only time I really approve of this is when it is used to mean "I'm interested if it hasn't sold by then...", ie This model might be for sale-please ask. In other words, it's for sale if it isn't sold! This appears a lot on s/d lists.
S/D lists are great ways to sell models. I mean, why settle for the son if you've got the sire? It's easier on the seller, as you're already telling the world what a great model he/she is. Another trend which seems to occur a lot is people who request my s/d list then put in an offer to buy one of the models listed, which don't have a for sale sign on them. This is both good and bad. If I was wavering on whether or not to sell, an offer will make me sell him. But a lot of furious breeders consider this straight bad manners. The owner of Flight Deck Stables, who I'm not going to name, was given an offer on her prize stud, Test Pilot. She was ready to strangle that person. "If I wanted to sell him," she wrote angrily back, "why would I have advertised him as a stud? I would have put him on a sales list!" So to each their own. But be very careful about making offers on non-ad horses. You might ask if there's any chance in the future and if so, to give you a call. I happen to keep the names of a lot of people on record, just in case. If I ever want to sell my stallion "Siglavy Magnificat", my SR Royal Lipizzaner Stallion Show model, I've got, to date, eighteen people to contact. So be polite about it-you may be very pleasantly surprised!
Here's the most aggravating part of model-selling-POSTAGE. Are we all in agreement here? Unless your buyer lives across the street, this is going to happen to you. On a sales list, it's usually very hard to determine postage, as we all live at different distances from each other. Most people just put the average cost and hope for best. Because I live in Canada, this fact panics most US sellers. They see "Canada", they think "East Zimbabwe". Instantly, my cost for shipping goes through the ceiling, whether this is the true cost or not. I hate saying that, but I've run into my share of sneaks. My problem as a seller is that I have to weigh each model, boxed, and determine where the buyer lives before I can tell how much postage will be. It's a sad fact of selling, but true. So, for the reason that postage for me can be a tad costly, I'm a sucker for the ppd-postage prepaid, in other words! If I see two Plutos in identical condition on two lists and one is $25 +post, the other $30 ppd, guess who I'm going for?! I wish I could offer this, but unless Canada Post has a drastic change of heart, I can't. And if I want the model you're selling badly enough, I'm going to buy it, post or no post.
Okay, that should about cover it. Selling can be a nuisance, filled with uncertainty, disappointment, worry, ruthless negotiating and exhaustion. No wonder we love it so much!! (Besides, if it wasn't for model horses, it would probably be politics.)
*Acadie Farms usually has a saleslist with great models on it for your consideration. To get the saleslist or s/d saleslist, please just email Catherine at Acadie Farms, acadie@hotmail.com. Hope to hear from you soon!